2C Update #130 - Samoa –
Upolu & Savai’i (August 17-30, 2005)
(Photographs by the Two Captains)
When
we left Pago Pago on an overnight sail to Western Samoa,
our outbound tack was such delightful sailing – complete
with full moon and perfectly on track for Tonga -- that
we were hard put, when the time came, to gibe over to
stick to our plotted route to Apia, Western Samoa.
Sticking to the plan put us in the way of several rain
cells and in the wind shadow of Tutuila, and even though
we managed to beat both those with a couple of hours of
judicious motoring, we pulled into Apia (13°49'S;
171°45'W) in a somewhat cranky mood that matched the
lowering clouds over the island.
This
was not helped when the approach opened up to reveal a
small harbor packed tightly with sailboats and a
shoreside that seemed more urbanized than Pago Pago.
Nor did it improve when, after rafting up with two other
boats to a tugboat on the commercial wharf for entry
procedures, a windless drizzle started that raised the
humidity to steam-bath proportions, particularly
uncomfortable for those of us in respectful,
conservative attire. If we could have turned tail and
slunk out of the harbor at that point, I think we would
have, but as it was friends had seen us and were calling
on the VHF and the entry officials had already been
notified. It was a tough start for a place that had
been ranked so much higher than its sister island, but
we’re glad we didn’t slink away, because the very next
day ushered in a week of crystal clear (albeit hot!)
weather, and by the time we were ready to leave some
twelve days later we’d had such a nice set of
experiences that we are convinced that neither Samoa
should be missed.
As I
wrote in the last Update, Samoa and American Samoa share
a culture, a language, and a people. Actually they
share two languages, Samoan and English, and somewhat
like American Samoa, Samoans have a westernized-style of
government (in their case based on the British
Parliamentary system) that is overlaid on the
centuries-old Fa’asamoa – the Samoan Way. Here
is the same system of extended families (aiga)
and matai (chiefs) who control the business of
each village, the same focus on community life, the same
traditions of food and sports, and the same intense
commitment to Christianity. In the outlying villages,
the architecture of boxlike houses with oblong or
rectangular fales (open pavillions) and crypts
for the parents in the front yard continues. The main
difference is that Samoa has much more space than its
American sibling -- 14 times the land area to less than
three times the population – so that all the now
familiar structures here seem less cramped, even in the
“suburbs” of Apia. And everybody is still related.
Families in Upolu and Savai’i (the two main islands of
Samoa) have relatives in American Samoa, and vice versa,
and everybody visits back and forth, keeping the ferry
system between all the islands busy.
It
was only in the late 19th century that public
ways of the two Samoas parted significantly. A dispute
between royal families resulted in the division, which
was then politicized in a division of the island group
into German and American territories. Germany, however,
lost control of their part at the beginning of WW1 when
they were busy in Europe and New Zealand stepped in. A
movement for independence, that began soon after the
Germans took control, continued to gain momentum,
fanned by New Zealand’s poor management of a flu
epidemic that did in nearly a quarter of Samoa’s
people. After a two-decade period of preparation,
Western Samoa finally gained its independence in 1962.
Today, Samoa (they have recently dropped the “Western”)
has its own currency -- the tala (worth today
about $.38), their fuel comes in liters, temperatures
are in Centigrade again, and electricity is 230v/50Hz.
Clinging more tightly to tradition, Samoans here do seem
less influenced by “western” ways. However, their per
capita incomes is about one quarter of their neighbors’,
and the practice of subsistence agriculture – coconuts,
taro, breadfruit, bananas, and papaya -- is the
cornerstone of most families’ survival! Fortunately,
Nature is bountiful and these foods grow everywhere.
To
the cruiser’s eye the sequence of German and New Zealand
influences has resulted in a prettier waterfront than
the Americans have managed next door. A tiered and paved
promenade with nice plantings tops the sea wall with
wide steps down to the water in several places. Unlike
the deep, twisted U-shape of Pago Pago, Apia’s harbor is
a near perfect “C”, with the mountain ranges standing
back from the coast a few miles. Beach Road follows the
edge of the harbor from the commercial wharf area south
past the famous Aggie Grey Hotel and several restaurants
and discotheques on around into the heart of town.
There are two high rise buildings of five and six
stories, the newest of which, looking like a Hilton
Hotel, is the government building. Just beyond the
government building are a “flea market” full of crafts
and a fish market, while the cavernous vegetable market
is inland several blocks. If catching a bite to eat in
the market food court is a little too native for you, no
worries, Apia does have its own McDonald’s, although
that was the only fast food joint we saw.
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The
most noticeable difference to us between this Samoa and
the American Samoa we’d recently left is that where Pago
Pago, with its canneries and container port, is a
working town, this Samoa is far more oriented to
tourists, particularly New Zealanders up for a winter
holiday. An easy walk from the dinghy dock and about a
block from the Aggie Grey Hotel we found the Green
Turtle Traveler’s Lounge. What a great concept. In one
nice, air conditioned storefront (open seven days a week
until late) is an internet café, complete with ice cream
and light meals combined with a tour operator.
Determined that we would not make the same mistake of
leaving our touring to last, we signed up for an
organized tour of Upolu (the main island) within days of
our arrival. (www.GreenTurtleTours.com;
www.EcotourSamoa.com (and others).
Upolu
is a big island, about 43 miles long with a road all the
way around and several more crossing its fat and
mountainous interior. Our tour started from town and
went clockwise around the perimeter, except on the
northeastern end where the rugged coast forces the road
up into the mountains.
Many
of the stops were swim stops: the freshwater
Piula cave pool right at the ocean’s edge, a popular
beach at the southeast tip, and a waterfall where the
young and reckless could jump from overhangs.
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Others were stops at beautifully situated beach
“resorts” (just in case, perhaps, we’d want to book
ourselves in).
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And
still others were chances for a peek at local living: a
village trying to revive coconut oil making – where we
all ate too much coconut – and the highlight of the
tour, lunch with a local family.
We
were guests of matai Moe in the village of
Saleilua. Although he apparently spoke no English, this
family chief welcomed the nine tourists into his house,
seated us on pandanus mats on the floor, and gave
us demonstrations of how Samoans make fire, weave
baskets from palm fronds and grate and squeeze coconut
pulp for the rich coconut cream in everything.
You
might think we’d be seated in one of the open air
fales, but in fact this all took place inside a
normal-looking house with walls that inside had no
interior rooms, just one big open space. Between and
above the windows, the walls were decorated with
photographs of his 11 children, 45 grandchildren and 54
great grandchildren (many of whom live in New Zealand).
Meanwhile, the remaining family’s furniture and daily
living was all out back in the wall-less fale!
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Our
meal – fish, slices of roast taro and breadfruit with a
dollop of luscious pulasami (minced taro leaves
baked in coconut cream) to dip them into, along with a
slice each of coconut and papaya – was eaten with
fingers from freshly-woven palm frond “plates” while our
“cocoa tea” was poured from a kettle into coconut husk
cups. Our guide Bo acted as interpreter for our
questions as the children mounded up in the door to
stare at us. All this for about $5 each.
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Of
course just driving around the island was a significant
part of the experience. There were many gorgeous views
and vistas, but the kaleidoscopic glimpses of town life
as we passed through the many villages – a kirikiti
(Samoan cricket) match in one, a Monday morning fono
(assembly of chiefs seated cross-legged in a fale)
in another, kids in uniforms walking home from school, a
traditional fale roof under construction, women
weaving pandanus mats in front of a TV, laundry
in a river, boys carrying coconuts to feed the pigs,
rugby practice, and, toward the end of the day, families
gathered together on lawns for Sa – were the real
rewards.
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In
square miles, Samoa’s second main island Savai’i is
bigger than Upolu. In fact it is the third largest
island in Polynesia after New Zealand and Hawaii. The
guidebooks and eco-tour marketers tout Savai’i as the
more pristine, more traditional of the big Samoa
islands, and indeed it is quieter and less-developed
than Upolu. The center of the island is dominated by a
string of volcanic mountains and dense jungle that make
it relatively impenetrable except by hardier tourists
than we. Since we were so pleased with the Upolu tour,
we decided to sign up for Green Turtle’s Savai’i tour,
instead of trying to see it by boat. There are several
good reasons to do this. There only a few acceptable
anchorages in Savai’i, and special permission to go
there by boat must be applied for. This is not all that
hard to accomplish, apparently, as several cruisers we
know did that. However, it is a disadvantage to sail
that far west, if your next destination is Tonga, since
the resulting course line is likely to be hard on the
wind
As
packing the ferry ride to Savai’i and the tour into one
day would make for a long one, we decided to book
ourselves into one of the “beach resorts.” A Samoan
“beach resort” is a collection of one-room, open-air
fales with a mattress on the floor, a mosquito net
and a communal bathroom. It is as close to the way
Samoans actually live as these two captains were likely
to get (Samoans don’t use mattresses; they sleep
directly on the pandanus mats!) Several of the
Upolu beach resorts we’d stopped by had appealed to us,
so we requested being booked into whatever resorts on
Savai’i most closely matched them. This led us to plan
an overnight at Vacation Beach Fales on Manase Beach in
Matavai.
Unfortunately, we woke to overcast skies and rain in
Apia. Being troopers, we forged ahead with the plan and
shared a fifty-tala taxi with our friends Dale
and Heather of C’est La Vie to the ferry dock at
the west end of Upolu. The ferry ride was boisterous (I
hardly noticed, deep into the 6th Harry
Potter book that Heather had lent me), and we landed to
have another fifty-tala taxi ride to Manase
Beach. Huddled together on a strip of beach seaward of
the road, Vacation Beach Fales were not quite as
appealing at first glance as the ones that had piqued
our interest in Upolu, but, although Dale and Heather
were right in the middle of the cluster, we did luck out
and get a fale on the beach separated from the
others by a creek.
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Our
fale was an oblong about 8’ x 20’, with a thatch
and tin roof and palm-frond “Venetian blinds” all round
that one could lower to keep out the rain. We spent the
cloudy afternoon relaxing and reading in our fale,
and capped it with a beach walk and swim. Dinner was
surprisingly nice (clearly one of the features that gave
the “resort” its “10” rating), and we retired to our
mosquito net for the evening. Before bed, Don raised
all the palm “blinds” so that we would wake to a view of
the ocean, but heavy nighttime rain squalls had him up
lowering them in succession as the wind backed around
the hut. Still, we slept surprisingly well and woke
pretty pleased with the adventure.
Unfortunately, the weather was not looking much better.
In fact it poured during breakfast. As luck would have
it a small store across the road was having a special on
umbrellas, and we four stocked up. Our driver Aitu,
arrived about ten and – we being the only passengers –
took off counter clockwise around the island. One of
the downsides, we discovered, about staying at Manase
Beach, was that the part of the “tour” covering the NE
section of the island between the ferry dock and Manase
was simply dropped. As this included the swim with the
turtles, Heather was quite disappointed.
However, we continued onward, driving through more
villages of houses and fales, with stops to descend into
a large lava tube, and to taste local fruits offered at
a family homestead eeking out a plantation on a craggy
lava field.
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On a
turn in the road we saw evidence of the ongoing logging
operations that Lonely Planet calls Savai’i’s biggest
on-going issue. On the West End of the island we
stopped to see some spectacular sea arches and “Lover’s
Leap” precipices, jammed the brakes on for a cloud of
bright blue Monarch-type butterflies just emerging from
their cocoons, and ate an uninspiring lunch at another
beach ‘resort” that raised our appreciation of Vacation
Beach by several points.
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Because of the nature of the village structure, most
every stop on the tour called for a token fee to be
paid. Although most of the amounts were small and
although it is very hard to begrudge these folks their
tokens, it begins after awhile to eat away at the
pleasure of a packaged tour! For this reason, and
because time until the return ferry seemed to be
slipping away from us, we by-passed several featured
stops, a Canopy walk (like a small version of the ones
we did in Costa Rica) and a tapa cloth weaving
demonstration (this probably because it was Saturday.)
However we did not miss the natural highlight of the
tour: the Taga Blowholes. We’ve seen blowholes before,
but none as spectacular as these. And the locals know
how to make a show of it.
Two
young girls carrying a basket of coconuts led us across
the craggy shore of black lava. A white line has been
painted across the rocks to keep tour groups back, but
we stepped right over it to within about ten feet. Like
the Bubbly Pool in the BVI, the blast obviously depends
on the state of the swell, but our blustery weather had
stirred up plenty enough for a good show. And, yes, as
you might guess, the purpose of the coconuts was to feed
the hole with ammunition, which made a pretty good
demonstration of the forces involved as they were
launched as high as a hundred feet in the air.
Perhaps it was the weather – low clouds which obscured
the mountains – but I’d have to honestly admit that,
other than the blow holes, there was nothing that we
felt was all so special about Savai’i. We enjoyed our
fale overnight, (between the ferry rides and the
leisurely afternoon I finished off the whole Harry
Potter book!), but I think we’d just as soon have stayed
at one of the ones on the south shore of Upolu (Vavau
Beach and Virgin Cove being our favorites based solely
on their spectacular landscapes). As Don wryly observed
half-way around, “I think I’ve got a grip on Samoan
Village life” and honestly the touted friendliness of
the Savai’i islanders was no more pronounced than on
Upolu or Tutuila. On the other hand, our friends on
Wandering Star who did take the boat to the
anchorage just east of where we stayed had such a
wonderful time they say they could actually live there.
Our
final tourist endeavor was squeezed into our last
afternoon after all the checking out and shopping had
been done. We grabbed a taxi and let it carry us up the
mountains behind Apia to the Robert Louis Stevenson
Museum. Plagued by poor health his whole life,
Stevenson and his wife Fanny made Samoa their home for
his last four years before his death. The house, high
on a hillside estate with a fine view of the sea, is now
beautifully restored by an American owner after having
been the residence of a German minister, a New Zealand
Minister, and a Samoan Minister during the years in
between. Our charming young guide painted a vivid
picture of the lives of the inhabitants (whom she
referred to by their first names … “Robert liked to
…..”, especially amusing as a book I looked at in the
gift show said he went by “Louis”!) Beautiful
residences like this always evoke a nostalgia for the
gracious living of times gone by, at least before you
consider the very primitive health care that was
available.
One
of the most interesting features of the museum was a
display of photographs from the turn of the century.
These included stunning black and white portraits of the
Samoans of Stevenson’s time. What a handsome people! A
small card made the critical observation that
photographers back then insisted on focusing on the more
sexual aspects of the society, but that is surely not
how it came across to us….. Although it is true that
women’s blouses only made their appearance toward the
end of the period. One can climb Mt. Vaea behind the
house to see the burial site of Stevensen and his wife
and enjoy a fine view, but I had forgotten the camera,
our cab was waiting, and the last hours of our time in
Samoa was ticking away, so we passed on the hike and
hastened back to the boat to finished prepping for our
pre-dawn departure.
In
closing, I must add that leaving when we did was not
easy.
Samoa’s big Teuila festival was only a matter of
days away. Training for the 50-man canoe teams was
heating up, the paddlers stroking through the anchorage
mornings and evenings to the insistent beat of their
onboard drummer. Kirikiti matches were already
underway all over town (the teams singing lustily as the
team trucks drove by), and we were told there would be
plenty of dance and music for the tourists, too. Teuila
(usually the first or second week in September) would be
a great time to visit Apia.
Without a festival, the
only music and dancing we saw in Western Samoa was the
Wednesday night fia fia at the famous Aggie
Grey’s Hotel. This show is definitely more of a tourist
pageant than the fia fia we saw Sadie Thompson’s
in Pago Pago, but it costs money, the crowd is bigger
and you have to get there an hour early to secure a good
seat. Aggie’s show does have live music and lusty male
dancers -- a definite plus, but their women didn’t hold
a candle to Sadie’s Girls in charm, sprit or beauty,
and, speaking of candles, Aggie’s fire dancers seemed
way tamer.
So
what it comes down to is that we couldn’t choose, and
we’re glad we didn’t have to. We enjoyed both Samoas –
Western and American, and we would strongly urge
cruisers to consider visiting both. The reality of the
cruising lifestyle is we have more needs than just
sightseeing. We heard tales of cruisers who turned
their up noses of at the idea of stopping in Pago Pago
and then were so disappointed in the provisioning
available in Apia that they actually took a plane back
to shop! And although there aren’t services specifically
for yachts in either port, you surely can’t beat
American Samoa for scrounging needed parts (especially
US stuff) either locally at the excellent hardware or
auto stores or getting them shipped in. Plus American
Samoa is a very friendly island where you don’t feel
like just another tourist. On the other hand, Western
Samoa, because it is more tourist-oriented, makes it far
easier for the visitor to access the traditional
experiences, and there’s definitely more attention
devoted to the preservation and cultivation of those
resources. If you’re not traveling in by boat, but
flying in for a holiday, Western Samoa is definitely the
one to choose.
Next
stop, Niuatoputapu, Tonga.
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