2C Update #131 -
Niuatoputapu, Tonga (September 1-13, 2005)
(Photographs by
the Two Captains; Bud & Nita, of sv Passage;
whale photograph by Tom Abend, sv Bravo Charlie III)
Arriving
in Niuatoputapu (NEW-ya-tow-poo-TAH-poo) (15*56’S;
173*46’W), the main island in the small northern Niua
island group of the Kingdom of Tonga, is rather like
arriving at the gatehouse of a big estate with a very
long driveway. Niuatoputapu is 160 miles south of
Samoa, but Tonga’s next island group – the Vava’u Group,
is another 160 miles south of here. The whole chain of
islands making up the kingdom is 325 miles long, ending
at Nuku’alofa (21*08’S; 175*11’W), and yet they are one
homogenous cultural group with a long history and a
proud (if, at the moment, shaky) monarchy.
Our
sail from Samoa to Niuatoputapu was memorable for being
on the wind. We’ve hardly sailed anywhere close-hauled
since leaving the northeast Caribbean, and, yes, it was
a shock to be heeled over with waves splashing across
the boat! (Have we said recently how much we like our
hard-top cum enclosure?) But here’s the amazing thing:
after several rough legs this year downwind in confused
seas where the boat’s interior seemed to creak and groan
like she was coming apart at the seams, heeled over,
sailing to windward, all below was quiet! Gives new
resonance to the old adage, upwind is harder on the crew
than the boat while downwind is harder on the boat than
the crew.
We’d motored out of
Apia Harbor at 4am, following our track (and our
friends on Passage) out the channel and
motorsailed along the north shore of Upolu reaching the
straits between Upolu and Savai’i (which we’d crossed by
ferry the week before) just after daybreak. We enjoyed
about an hour or so of classic sailing, reaching along
at 7 knots in virtually no sea, catching and passing our
friends (damn near close enough to pass the Grey Poupon)
as we entered the straight. And then we snagged a 30lb
tuna. No way could Don get that sucker in at that
speed, so we had to take way off and furl the genoa, and
even then it was a struggle.
As happy has we were
to have the fish (tuna is a favorite), after that we
couldn’t get the boat moving again. While Passage,
a Kelly Peterson 44. disappeared into the mist, we just
got slower and slower. Nothing we tried seemed to work.
The instruments claimed we had a favorable current, the
wind was 60 degrees off the bow, but the boat just felt
sluggish, as if she were sailing through mud. It was
very reminiscent of the Anegada Passage in the
Caribbean, and we were forced to motorsail until late
afternoon. Then, suddenly, as if she’d shaken off
Neptune’s grip, T2 picked up her skirts and
started sailing briskly again right through the night –
despite reefing down in several steps – with the
result that we entered the pass at Niuatoputapu the next
afternoon right on Passage’s heels!
Within an hour or
two of our arrival four officials were ferried out to
the boat by one of the other cruisers, three ladies
representing customs, immigration and health, and one
gentleman representing quarantine. Everyone spoke
English, albeit somewhat timidly, without which the
crowd would have been overwhelming. The gentleman wore a
woven pandanus mat wrapped around his middle over
western clothes, our first introduction to the
ta’ovala. Looking somewhat uncomfortable to our
eyes, the ta’ovala is Tongan formal wear, worn
for occasions when a westerner might wear a suit and
tie.
We had heard some
stories about the check-in procedure here and were
prepared with Zuko (a Kool-aid-type drink) and a large
bowl of popcorn as refreshments. Every other treat,
especially the ones of which we’d foolishly only bought
one bag (eg. Tostitos) was tucked as far out of sight as
possible, because we’d been warned that no one was shy
about asking for things…and occasionally just taking
them! We’d heard the island was short on fuel (since the
last supply ship had failed to bring any!) and had
brought extra gas from Samoa, which Besse, the customs
lady, snapped right up. The quarantine gentleman,
however, was definitely more interested in western
snacks and wasn’t shy about asking for more than the
popcorn. His eyes lit us when he found the “Trail Mix”
bars we’d seeded for him in the snack hammock! Aboard
Passage, they imprudently put out Oreo cookies,
and their whole 3lb bag was done in...and that was AFTER
our popcorn!
In the course of
checking in we were reminded that somewhere along the
way we had crossed the International Date Line. August
31 suddenly became September 1, thanks to the dateline
jogging eastward about eight degrees to keep Tonga on
the same day as Fiji and New Zealand, its major trade
partners. The actual time on your watch--going from Z-11
to Z+13 -- doesn’t change, just the date. In
anticipation, crossing the dateline seemed like it would
be as big a deal as crossing the equator, but, when it
finally came to it, it felt more like a clerical error.
|
|
|
Niuatoputapu (a
daunting name to pronounce which means “very sacred
coconut’) is one of those very simple places that seem
to have ducked the winds of change. A kidney- shaped
island with a protective lagoon on its north side and a
small mountain in the middle like the peak of a
sombrero, Niuatoputapu offers a protected and scenic
anchorage with great holding in reasonable depths plus a
commanding view of Tafahi, a perfectly conical volcano,
across about 4 miles of water to the north. There were
about seven boats when we arrived, and we saw as many as
twelve there, with room (sigh) for quite a few more. In
the past, many boats have bypassed this island, but
recent guidebooks have described it as a possible
highlight of a south Pacific cruise because of its
traditional simplicity. Catch 22: you can’t dub a place
a “highlight” and expect it to remain off the beaten
path for long.
|
|
The Anchorage
|
Niuatoputapu has a
road along its north side connecting its three villages:
Falehau where the wharf and anchorage are at the
northeast end, Hihifo, the “capital” at the west end,
and even smaller Vaipoa between them. People live in
simple concrete homes or in even simpler huts of sticks,
tin and thatch, which are so low you have to crawl into
them. Since everyone sits and sleeps on woven
pandanus mats on the floor, I guess there is not
much need for headroom! There are pigs and piglets
everywhere, dogs, chickens, and a fair number of horses,
which are used to carry burdens of coconut and produce
from the family “plantations” to the houses.
“Plantations” – essentially garden plots where the
family grows their staple crops like taro, banana,
papaya and the like – are either up the mountainside or
on the windward side of the island, or, like one couple Niko and Sia, across the way on the sides of the
volcano Tafahi. Breadfruit trees are everywhere, and
mango trees, laden with tiny fruits that won’t ripen
‘til long after we’re gone, are thick on the windward
side. Clearly, while variety may be an issue, no one
will ever go hungry here! In addition to the horses,
there are “almost” 20 cars and a bunch of bicycles.
There are three primary schools, one high school, one
hospital/clinic, one government office building, one
store, one small “resort”, one airstrip and, of course,
several churches. Kava is drunk pretty much every
afternoon. There is not much else to do.
|
Typical Houses
|
Kava Drying
|
Burial Mounds
|
It’s a hot 3K walk
from the wharf to Hihifo (as Don says, “scenic only
once.”) where the office that will take your fees
is…essentially the length of the island. The children
in the villages have palangi radar (palangi
is the local word for “gringo”), streaking across yards
and fields to yell “Hi” and “Bye” as you pass by, or
yelling from a distance if they are busy. If you slow
down, the next phrase you will hear is “What’s your
name?” and, if you actually stop, it’ll be promptly
followed by “Where’s my lolly?”, asked with an
outstretched hand. This sounds demanding written down,
but in reality it is more like some hopeful greeting.
No one seems terribly disappointed if you haven’t got
sweets on you. Of course, the day we walked to Hihifo
turned out to be Saturday, a fact we didn’t notice until
we got there and found the office was closed. So was
the store. Having exhausted the options of town, we
turned around and walked back. |
The next time we
ventured ashore we borrowed Bud and Nita’s folding
bikes. This made for a faster (and cooler) trip and we
successfully found the office open and paid our entry
fees (to the same lady who was one the boat!). However,
the store was still closed. The bikes however allowed
us to pedal back via the bumpy loop through the
plantations on the windward-side. We took each spur to
the east as they came up, which led to the airstrip and
the beach. Occasionally we saw men idling in the shade,
but the amazing thing to us is that there are no
isolated houses out here. Everyone commutes from town.
We know that for
many cruisers the purpose and joy of cruising is to make
as much contact with the local people as they can, a
balance to be struck that is different for every person.
Some people really have a knack, but in a quiet
community like Niuatoputapu, I can’t escape feeling like
my palangi presence as I walk through –
essentially gawking; inevitably evaluating -- is an
intrusion. Sure, the kids are thrilled to see us. They
have the curiosity and ingenuousness of kids everywhere,
and since English is a big deal in the schools, required
of all students, they are eager to exercise it.
|
|
|
But the adults are
more reserved, smiling, occasionally waving, but often
just ignoring us. Their school English, perhaps little
used, is not so easy to understand, and quite frankly,
our appearance and disappearance doesn’t have much to
contribute to their lives unless they need something
they want to trade for. Trading is an activity at which
I always feel clumsy, probably because I either don’t
have or can’t give up what they ask for, or I don’t need
or want what they have to trade for it.
Plus, in situations
like this I become even more self-conscious than usual
about abiding by local customs. The pitfalls are out
there, ready to trap you. One shouldn’t point, for
example, or pat a child on the head, or, when sitting on
those mats, one should never point the soles of one’s
feet at anyone. If someone offers you a gift, like the
nice lady who extended a handful of mandarin oranges to
us just as we were climbing on to the bicycles, you
should take it whether you want it or not. Likewise, if
someone asks for something, as per Mr. Quarantine-man,
you should give it!
Sometimes the people
do reach out, and invariably the most successful
connections are made with people who have lived
off-island and been exposed to the entrepreneurial
spirit. Niko and Sia, for example, are a couple who
moved to Niuatoputapu from the capital Nuku’alofa.
Their English is good, and they have made a name for
themselves here reaching out to the cruisers who visit.
They frequently come out to the boats with fruit to
trade, and most Sundays Sia puts on an umu picnic
on the uninhabited motu behind the anchorage, to which
cruisers are urged to bring desserts, the sweeter and
more chocolate-y the better. (Apparently sweets are
something Tongan’s crave but can’t fix for themselves!)
Also, for 100
pa’anga (about $50US), Niko will take people in his
boat across to Tafahi (where their plantation is) and
will guide the hardy to the top of the volcano for the
view. I think cruisers are often more comfortable with
this kind of relationship -- where the exchange is clear
and familiar. Yet there are those in town who think it
is inappropriate that Niko and Sia charge cruisers for
anything. Evidently, Niuatoputapu is not so small that
it is free of human politics.
Walking back from
Hihifo that first Saturday, a cyclist came alongside our
group, stopped and introduced himself, and walked the
rest of the way with us. John, at best guess somewhere
in his mid-forties, has lived many years in the US
giving twenty years to the Air Force as a cargo plane
pilot. Now in the reserves, he is back visiting his
mother for six months, and his perspectives on island
life and what they need to conserve versus what they
need to change were very interesting. His biggest
criticism is the tendency of the islanders to only
relate to visitors when they need something from them.
Unfortunately, this is probably could be equally said of
how many cruisers relate to islanders!
Regardless, life on
an island like Niuatoputapu is pretty slow. It is
definitely NOT a place Don and I could stop and linger
long.
HOWEVER…the reef
outside the lagoon gave us not only some good diving and
hunting opportunities among its knotty coral and craggy
ravines, but it gave us our first exposure to the whales
of Tonga. Tonga is a major breeding and calving ground
for the southern hemisphere’s humpback whales that
migrate here from Antarctica during the southern winter.
We weren’t really expecting to find whales until
reaching Vava’u, but outside the reef of Niuatoputapu
the whale song below the thermocline was loud and
clear! There is nothing that thrills my soul like
free-diving down as deep as I can reach, holding my
breath and then just hanging there in the silence
listening to the party line of whale talk. I was able
pick out four distinct phrases (which I won’t try to
replicate here) at four different pitches, and the
volume was such I was sure the singers would materialize
from the deep at any moment.
|
Photo by Tom Abend
|
They didn’t, of
course, but knowing they couldn’t be far away, we sat in
the dinghy and watched for spouts. Shortly, we saw one
only a mile or two away. We sped over and then
drifted, hoping against hope to catch a closer look.
Suddenly, a spout blasted a mere twenty feet from our
friends’ dinghy. On impulse, I back-rolled into the
water and found myself just ten feet from a mother and
calf! It took me two full heartbeats to realize what I
was seeing. Holy shit, Batman! I never imagined I’d ever
see a whale that close! I raised my head to alert Don,
and when I stuck my face back in the water, two tails
were already receding into the blue. It was over way too
quickly, and now we want more!
Now, we can’t wait
to get to Vava’u. |
prev |
next |
|