2C Update #135 -
Vava'u, Tonga Part
4 (September
15 - November 29, 2005)
Vava’u Underwater
Arriving at Hunga
Island marked at turning point in our efforts to find
good diving in Vava’u. Although there are two dive
shops in Neiafu -- Dolphin Diving and Beluga Diving --
neither had been willing to talk with us about dive
sites. This is not particularly unusual behavior from
businesses who want you to use their services. Our
friend Tom of Bravo Charlie III, who had whiled
away his months in the harbor by working on his divemaster certification with Dolphin Diving, had kept
track of the dive locations he had visited with them,
but an 11x17 chart with a bunch of red dots on it --
without GPS coordinates, profiles or briefings -- is not
necessarily a lot of help. It is, of course, why you
should go with professionals: they know the dives,
where to anchor, when the current will run and which
way, what route will maximize the scenery, and where the
critters will likely be. I can’t argue with it; I made
a living being that kind of professional for twelve
years. It just hurts to pay to go diving!
It is, however, very
frustrating not to know where to go. You call into play
all your knowledge and all your instincts to guess where
might be good,… and then you stick your face in the
water. There are a lot of differences between the
underwater processes of the Pacific and our home turf in
the Caribbean, and up to this point our only successes
had been small snorkeling spots here and there: the
inside reef near the “party Beach” (we later heard the
outside is quite good), some scrappy-but-busy patches
near the Ark Gallery, and a quite lovely --but small
--reef area south of Mounu Island. To be truthful, we
weren’t working all that hard at it either.
Hunga, the
westernmost island of Vava’u’s main archipelago, to
which we sailed after our whale watch day, is actually
four islands that almost touch making two distinct
anchorages. Two small islands -- Foeata and Foelifuka
-- define the bottom edge of the popular Blue Lagoon
anchorage (the name taken from a resort on Foeata),
which is linked to Fofoa and Hunga to the north by an
almost continuous barrier reef. We’ve seen it before;
give an anchorage a sexy name like “Blue Lagoon” and
everybody wants to go there, even though it is fairly
exposed and peppered with reefs and shallows It was
actually where we’d been heading when the sky clouded
over and the wind freshened. It no longer seemed like a
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So, instead we bore
away around to Hunga’s west side, seeing four whales on
the way (see last Update) to take refuge in Hunga’s
other anchorage, a practically land-locked lagoon.
Entry is on the west side through a very narrow opening
through the rock complicated by a pinnacle planted in
the middle of the pass followed by a dogleg to the right
and shallow enough that at dead low tide a six-foot
draft boat might touch. This daunting description got
our heart rate up a bit (especially when we realized at
the last minute that we were only one hour past low
tide), but in fact entry went smoothly and we found only
one other boat at anchor inside.
What a perfect
hurricane hole!…except of course, for the fact that,
like so many places in this part of the world, most of
it is too damn deep! There is the Ika Lahi Fishing Lodge
at the northwest corner and Hunga Village at the
northeast, but, the rest is uninhabited and, after
scoping out all the shores (and discovering that the
guidebook misrepresents a few things) we dropped the
hook about 200 yards behind the other boat on a 40’
ledge along the lagoon’s SW side. The other boat was
Amante, a Morgan Out Island 51’. We were pleased to
see it, because we had met its owners John and Vera at
the swap meet in Neiafu and they had expressed some
interest in buying our cruising spinnaker (oft referred
to as the BFS). Having used the damn thing only five or
six times in three years, we were keen to get off our
foredeck, and Amante was one of the few boats
around big enough to be a legitimate candidate. They
were also divers.
Before we left
Neiafu the last time, we had worked harder at pinning
down some dive information, particularly for dives in
the 40’ range. One of the leads we had been given was
to dive the snorkel site shown just outside Hunga’s
narrow pass. The following morning, we asked John and
Vera if they’d like to join us. What a great dive! By
chance we got the dinghy anchor down in the perfect
place, a sandy spot at the head of an underwater ravine
reaching seaward. The north side of this ravine was a
long spur of rock cloaked with dozens of different kinds
of hard corals, soft corals, leather corals, liberally
bedecked with featherstars and bright green bubble algae
and busy with fish of all sizes. At its outer end it
probably dropped down as deep as 80-90’, but with the
good viz the view from 40’ was just great. The tip of
the spur presented an “acre” of unblemished lettuce
coral (sometimes called cabbage coral)-- a beautiful
species with delicately-folded leaves that we have
nothing like in the Caribbean. Through these leaves
darted scissortail sergeant majors and other small
tropicals, while above milled a large school of what
back home we’d call boga. We worked our way back on the
other side of the “finger” and saw more of the same to
the north. We enjoyed this dive so much, we did it a
second time the next day.
For that one
successful find, we had two other flops. We burned a
gallon or two of expensive gasoline running south
outside the Blue Lagoon’s western reef to check out one
of Tom’s red dots, which lay pretty near where we’d seen
the mother whale and calf on our way in, but Don swam
futilely all over looking for anything that invited a
dive. Perhaps we didn’t go quite far enough, plus a lot
of the deep dives don’t look like much from the surface.
Who knows? The other dive lead we’d gotten from the
same source as the Hunga pass dive. Said to be just
outside the entrance to Blue Lagoon (which we could
access from our anchorage through a “canoe pass” at high
tide where Fofoa and Hunga don’t quite touch), we found
only a mediocre wall of pastel leather corals (a “soft”
coral that looks a lot like a floppy vase sponge) which
was not worth the stress of leaving the dinghies
anchored barely outside the surf zone. It turns out
there are actually two passes into Blue Lagoon and we
weren’t in the right one!
Our next successful
dive happened several days later when we rendezvoused
with our friends Bud and Nita of Passage, who’d
finally torn themselves away from Niuatoputapu (which
evidently they liked better than we did! See Nita’s
website
www.svpassage.com.) Our lead was another snorkel
site off the island of ‘Euakafa (pronounced (AY-wah-KAH-fah).
On the chart it showed as just a tiny patch to the west
of the island, but in the 40-50’ of water on its south
side was one of the most exciting coral gardens we’d yet
seen. There is a positive riot of tangled staghorn
coral, great discs of sheet coral, and big spreads of
table coral, that most Pacific of coral formations where
a huge fan of lacy caramel-colored coral spreads out
from one “stalk” in a huge vertical plane. The most
common coral out here is what I call “flower coral”
based on a vague recollection of the name from my Red
Sea trip in 1984 and the fact that it looks like a
bouquet, but my allegedly local book calls it anemone
coral, which actually is a pretty good name for it.
(Probably a good place to mention that I haven’t found a
good book on Pacific corals yet!) These white corals
are home to bunches of dascyllus (dascylli?), tiny black
and white fish that dart into its protecting branches
like Nemo fish (aka clown fish) do with anemones.
Speaking of which, there are lots of these here too,
along with clouds of convict tangs -- yellow striped
with black -- over the staghorn tangle, pale blue
chromis mixed with orange basslets, pairs of butterfly
fish -- each pair seeming different from the last,
colorful wrasse, red squirrelfish, banded goatfish,
bi-color angels (like the Caribbean’s rock beauties),
moorish idols and their bannerfish look-alikes, piccaso
triggerfish, tiny filefish (called leatherjackets here),
hawkfish and, of course damselfish and sergeant majors.
It sadly seems very rare to see fish of “good eating
size” like snapper, jacks and larger parrots…I supposed
because, in a largely subsistence culture, they’ve
already been eaten. This is also why it’s a find to
sight the fluted shapes of any tridacna clams, although
there are some efforts here at farming them. Obviously,
no one has found a taste or use for sea cucumbers around
here because we haven’t seen a bottom yet that isn’t
littered with them, as well as bright blue starfish,
puffy cushion stars and the occasional ugly crown of
thorns.
Several day later we
made another particularly nice dive with Bud and Nita on
a site less than a half a mile from the Full Moon Party
Beach, where, in fact we had returned for October’s Full
Moon Party The dive is a reef out in the middle of the
channel about a third of the way along a line between
Langito’o and Ovalau, and therefore only accessible by
dinghy in settled conditions. Here we found our first
“perfect” reef. We circumnavigated the entire shoal at
40’ and found pristine, mixed corals nearly the whole
way around. The fish life, however, was a bit quiet,
perhaps because we were diving right at midday and in
such calm conditions.
Don has made a
couple of dives I haven’t. Right at the south end of
Neiafu Harbor is the 400-foot long wreck of the copra
freighter Clan MacWilliam that caught fire and sank in
1927. Although it sits in 90-120’ of water, the bow is
reached at 90’ and the stern at 75’, and both ends are
moored making it the most accessible dive site in Vava’u.
Don dove this with our friend Tom of Bravo Charlie
III, and they reported penetrating the wreck easily
through a gaping hole in its side.
Our friend Ben --
formerly of Waking Dream and currently of
Aquarium Internet Café -- stole an afternoon away from
the office to take Don on a dive at Split Rock, a dive
site on the north side of Tu’ungasika, a small island
off Vava’u’s Port of Refuge anchorage. Marked by lots
of tunnels and caves, this actually is more my kind of
dive than his, but at 60-80’, it is out of my current
depth range. Fortunately, the visibility was excellent,
and I was able to follow them easily on the
surface….except when they went into the caves! This
dive is what we call a “structure” dive, where the
attraction is found more in the underwater architecture
than in the marine life, although the highlight for Don,
who is not a big fan of caves, was some big fish (no
gun), a field of garden eels, and his first sea snake!
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Caves are a big
thing in Vava’u. While out in Ben’s fast boat, he
decided to show us two of Vava’u’s major tourist
attractions we’d so far missed. The first is Swallow’s
Cave. This cave (actually a pair of caves) cuts into
the cliff above and below the water on the north tip of
Kapa Island (just around the corner from Port Maurelle).
In a dinghy you can motor right into it, but it is best
experienced snorkeling because it is like floating in a
cathedral that has been filled halfway with water! Just
stunning! Its partner cave a few yards easy swim around
the point is smaller with a gap in its roof giving a
view of the jungly vegetation above thanks to which it
has more floating leaf litter in it. These two caves
get their name (I assume) from the swallows that nest
inside and flit in and out like bats.
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The real showpiece
of a cave, however, was our next stop: Mariner’s Cave.
This cave, on the backside of Nuapapu Island (Mariner
mistakenly puts its on Hunga in his 1800 account of the
Tonga Islands) would be very hard to stumble over if you
didn’t know it was there. The entrance to the cave is
about 6’ under the surface (depending on the tide) and
requires an underwater swim of about 12’ to get inside.
Once inside the only light is the ethereal blue coming
through the underwater entrance, and the seal is so
tight that when the swell rolls in, the water compresses
the air in the cave fast enough to produce an instant
fog-out! As the swell ebbs, the air comes as instantly
crystal clear.
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There’s a wonderful
story about this cave that William Mariner relates in
his impressive account of Tonga in the 1800s. Mariner
was a 14-year-old clerk aboard an English privateer --
the Port Au Prince -- the crew of which was
massacred by Tongans in the Ha’apai Island Group in
1806. Mariner was spared and virtually adopted by King
Finow, and during his four years living here, he
absorbed a tremendous amount about the culture which is
recorded in the volume Tonga Islands: William
Mariner’s Account, published by John Martin, MD in
1817. (A great read!) Anyway, the story goes that “in
former times” there was a tyrannical leader who
mistreated his subjects. One of his chiefs, hoping to
free the people of the tyranny, planned a rebellion, but
he was caught and condemned to be drowned at sea with,
as they tended to do in those days, all his family and
relations. A young chief was secretly in love with one
of the condemned man’s daughters, a maiden to whom he
would otherwise have had no access (she was promised to
someone of higher rank), so, thinking quickly, he
hurried to her abode, declared himself, and explained
the situation and her options (none). Fortuitously, she
had been secretly smitten with him, and putting her
trust in her savior, allowed him to spirit her away in
his canoe and hide her in this cave. The young chief
kept her stashed for two or three months, bringing food,
water and bedding as he could, until he was able to
arrange to be sent on an expedition to Fiji. On his way
out from Vava’u, he stopped his canoes, left his men
perplexed as he dived into the water and disappeared,
only to return with his maiden fair, and off they sailed
to Fiji where they lived (happily, of course) until the
tyrant died. On learning this tale, Mariner was
skeptical about her ability to survive in the cave which
has no evident source of fresh air, and took it upon
himself to find an opening. Although he was not
successful, it was later discovered that there is a
fissure that only gets exposed at low tide (it was high
tide when Mariner looked) which does allow the cave to
breathe!
Like the Virgin
Islands, Vava’u is not often hit directly by hurricanes,
but they did have a bad one four years ago. Hurricanes
are hard on fragile shallow-water corals, and
Pacific-style barrier-type reefs, which reach right up
to the surface, are particularly susceptible to damage
from wave action, which may be why on many of Vava’u
long barrier reefs we see just small pockets of exciting
corals embedded in stretches that are dead or damaged.
The three-to-four-foot tidal range works on them, too,
something the Caribbean doesn’t have to deal with (tides
in the Virgins run about eight inches!) On the other
hand, as I am wont to say, hurricanes and tides are
forces of Mother Nature that have been at work for
epochs and are part of the process by which underwater
landscapes have been and continue to be shaped. If
anything I am more amazed at what vibrant shallow-water
corals persist.
Vava’u is nowhere
touted as a world-class dive destination, but the fact
is that, except for the south pass of Fakarava (check
out the December ‘05 issue of Cruising World Magazine
for my Passage Notes Piece on that great dive), we have
not found really awesome diving anywhere we’ve been in
the South Pacific yet. So, all in all, what is here,
when you couple it with the caves and the whales and the
fabulous topside scenery, adds up to some pretty
satisfying underwater experiences.
Given that, though, imagine what we might
have to say if we ever pay the pros to take us!
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