2C Update #136 -
Vava'u, Tonga Part
5 (September
15 - November 29, 2005)
A Change of Plans
During the course of
October, Don and I continued to make plans to depart for
Fiji where we had a haul-out reservation at Vuda Point
Marina. We poured over charts with friends who’d spent
time there, read the guide book, and started thinking
about making the 450 mile passage. Even as we did so,
we found ourselves increasingly entwined with the
community here in Vava’u, and the same time sensitive
about all the anchorages in the archipelago to which we
hadn’t yet been. We started hypothesizing about how
feasible it would be to backtrack next year.
In October, Vava’u
fills with the final waves of trans-Pacific cruisers,
most preparing to make a left turn to head south to New
Zealand for cyclone season. Friends we’d been traveling
with all season were departing to Tongatapu, Tonga’s
southernmost island and the usual jumping off point for
the New Zealand passage, even as stragglers we’d known
in Mexico were just arriving.
Tackless
II at Sisia
Although New Zealand
is a place that we would very much like to visit, little
we have heard about it makes it sound like a place these
two tropical Cs want to do by boat. The passage to New
Zealand can be a tough one. No matter how closely one
watches the weather, the odds are unlikely of making the
trip without encountering contrary winds or a bad blow
somewhere along the way. And bad blows in that part of
the world regularly reach 50-60 knots or worse as
opposed to the 35 knots that shake up sailors in the
tropics. It’s bad enough the journey down can be nasty,
but, once you get there, even though December to April
is their summer, all the reports we’d heard from friends
in previous years made the coastal weather sound too
chilly and blustery for our tastes and the unheated,
un-insulated interior of Tackless II. Hence the
plan to haul and store the boat in Fiji.
Among the
southbound, conversations centered on weather windows,
weather routers and whether or not to take on extra crew
for the potentially arduous passage. All this is
particularly hard to take as you sit in Vava’u’s idyllic
surroundings. Why ever would you want to leave? Well,
okay, every week or so we were already getting low
pressure systems that blew hard and dumped tons of
rain. (On Tackless, we kept our water tanks full
for weeks just by opening the scuppers, a first since
Panama!) But in between, Vava’u was more beautiful than
ever.
This is probably how
spin-off conversations got started about staying through
cyclone season in Vava’u. Like the Virgin Islands in
the Atlantic/Caribbean, Vava’u is definitely in the
South Pacific cyclone zone. There’s no kidding yourself
that it’s not. But the locals claim that a bad storm
hits the group only once every ten years. They also say
the South Pacific cyclones are much smaller than
Caribbean mega-storms, and the region being so much
bigger reduces the odds of a direct hit. We knew, of
course, that it can happen. Our friends Baker and Cindy
had arrived in Vava’u in December of 2001, just in time
to sit out Cyclone Waka, a category V hurricane that
dragged most of the boats and their moorings in Neiafu
from one side of the harbor to the other! We also knew,
first-hand thanks to Hurricane Marilyn in the VI 1995,
that a direct hit even by a small storm if it’s a nasty
one can do plenty of damage. Still, Ben and Lisa of
Waking Dream had stayed last year with no problem
and were busy putting down cyclone mooring in Neiafu for
themselves and other friends that were forswearing
heading south, and of course we knew that our buddies
Mike and Mary had left their boat de la Mer on a
mooring at Tapana in the care of Larry Schneider.
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And so, just about
the time we should have been taking off for Fiji, we
found ourselves changing all our plans. After
confirming everything with our insurance company, we
made arrangements with Larry to leave Tackless
one of his three cyclone moorings for the five months we
expected to be back in the States. Larry’s mooring
field in Anchorage #11 struck us as at least as
protected as the main harbor if not more so, and it had
the distinct advantage, should the worst happen and we
get a direct hit, of having far fewer other boats to
break free or structures to blow apart to cause havoc.
Larry would open the boat up to air every day
possible, run the engine in gear every week, and fire up
the generator once a month. We had never before
left the boat in the water like this, and we were
nervous about the gamble, but our hope was (after the
mess we’d come back to in Raiatea (see Update #126))
that T2 would actually be happier.
With this big decision came the bonus of six extra weeks
in Tonga, since we already had our air tickets back to
Tampa for early December. What to do? |
Comparison of
Anchorages
Tapana in foreground, Neiafu in the distance |
Like kids on vacation we used the time to wander about
the rapidly emptying anchorages of Vava’u. We
snorkeled the reef of Sisia, a charming day anchorage
we’d passed by a dozen times. We checked out the
Japanese garden snorkeling site of Mala Island and
binged on a steak dinner in front of the resort’s giant
projection TV (one of the very few TVs in Vava’u) where
we watched reports on Hurricane Wilma on CNN by
satellite. In Vaka Eitu we crossed paths with
Antares Royale one of the boats that had been
crunched in the Panama Canal just before we left in 2001
(See the end of
Update #39),
all put back together (after four years’ work!) and
cruising happily!
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One afternoon, we
hid from wind behind round little Lape Island on the
bight between Vaka Eitu an Nuapapu islands. In the
late afternoon, a local fisherman crept by and begged
some gasoline from us. His story was that he’d
gotten some water in his tank and was having trouble
making in back to his village on Nuapapu. We gave
him our jug and said we’d pick it up from him the next
day. Yes, it crossed our mind that we might never
see the jug again, and yes, that’s gallons of fuel at
about $4 a gallon that we just gave away, but it is part
of the ethic of these islands that if you have something
and someone needs it you share it with them.
Don and I have not
spent much time exploring the scattered villages of
Vava’u, but the next day we puttered across the
windswept channel and tucked in front of Matamaka
village. One of the boats at anchor looked rather
like the one we’d lent fuel to, but who’d know for sure,
and how, we wondered, would we find its owner. The
only life in sight was a youngster playing cowboy on the
beach, bareback on a horse loaded with coconuts!
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Vaka Eitu left and
Nuapapu Islands with Lape in center |
We needn’t have
worried. In the short time it took us to dinghy
ashore, we were met at the rocky jetty by an attractive
woman and her two children. This was Va’aki, the
wife of Ben the fisherman, and yes they had our jug, and
would we please come to church and Sunday dinner with
them tomorrow.
Matamaka is not a
large village: a dirt track down the middle, one
school, one little store that was closer to a stand, and
only two hundred people in 40 families. Houses are
very simple affairs. Yet there are five churches.
The most prosperous looking ones were the Methodist
church – which was having a big event that day -- and
the brand new Mormon church with a mowed-grass lawn
behind its brand new chain link fence. None of
them were big, but Ben and Va’aki and their three girls
belonged to the Assembly of God Church which, all the
way at the opposite end of the village from their house,
was no larger than a house itself (about 15’x30’) and
seemed actually to be built in Ben’s parents’ back yard.
We deduced that most of the members were from the one
extended family. Up front was an altar bedecked in
plastic flowers, the windows were draped with white
curtains, and seating was on the floor on pandanus mats.
It was a long
service. Like most church services in the South
Pacific, singing was a huge part of things, and it
matters little that you don’t know the language since
you don’t know the tunes either. In the Catholic
church we attended in Pangai, the congregation was well
over a hundred, so the music just washed over you like
surf. In Matamaka’s Assembly of God gathering,
there were only six adult voices singing (6-part!)
harmony to a guitar. It was still fairly pleasing,
although with so few in the chorus, individual voices
tended to stand out….which is not always good. Ben
and Va’aki tried to translate the sermon as it went on –
something along the gist of how devotion to Jesus takes
precedence over daily chores (!), -- all this while
sitting on the floor. One of the neat things about
this service was how small children were allowed to
wander in and out at will, with older siblings tending
them. It provided us with some distraction.
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Ben & Va’aki’s house
and family |
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Back at Ben and Va’aki’s tiny house, she had prepared
quite the feast with yam, taro, ota ika (Tongan ceviche
in coconut milk) along with crab and lobster.
It was a bit disconcerting to be presented with lobster
and crab in their shells with only a plastic fork
provided as a tool. And it didn’t help that
Tongan hosts usually don’t eat while their guests do.
No clues, you see. But somehow, we managed.
That afternoon, Ben, Va’aki, and what looked like about
forty adults, all in their Sunday finery, departed for
Neiafu on a boat surely built for no more than twelve.
However this apparently is something they do at least
once a month to attend the monthly gathering of ALL the
Vava’u Assembly of God members in “downtown” Neiafu!
The wind was still gusting and it looked mighty
precarious to us! When they still weren’t back the
next morning, we left our grocery bags of thank-you
gifts on their front stoop. The charm of the whole
experience was somewhat marred when we later learned
those the bags got pilfered before they got home!
It makes for an ironic lesson on trust, doesn’t it?
Another highlight of
our bonus time was the five days we spent in Vava’u’s
“Eastern Anchorages”. Because reaching this part
of the archipelago involves transit of the tricky Fanua
Tapu Pass through low-lying shoals, many boats never get
the weather (or gumption) to bother. Both arrived
to us together on Sunday November 13, when we ventured
through the pass and then onward past Ofu Island through
the maze of reefs to Kenutu, the southernmost of a
string of islands that make up the windward edge of
Vava’u.
It was a glorious
spot with sunny weather, a bit of breeze, and golden
beaches backed by coconut trees. And we had it all
to ourselves!.
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The
leeward beach at Kenutu...Don finds coconuts! |
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Kenutu and its sister islands present rugged
cliff-fronts to the open ocean. One of the first
things we did was scout out the path said to lead
through the forest to the top, which, once found, led us
to an overlook reminiscent of Baja’s rugged islands,
except framed in tropical green. (Sorry, forgot the
camera!) Below swirled blues and emeralds around rocks
and reefs in inaccessible coves, and offshore banks of
coral sloped away to the blue deep. On a day with
more wind and swell, it would be quite the spectacle.
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The shoals between
Kenutu and Umuna from Umuna
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Back on the sandy western sides of the
islands, we found we could walk from Kenutu across
drying shallows studded with tide pools of blue starfish
and black sea cucumbers to neighboring Umuna. On
Umuna is a path leading to a cave with a fresh water
pool. We’d pictured something like the ones on
Western Samoa…something one might want to swim in.
Instead it proved to be a deep hole in the side of the
hill, choked by saplings and populated by bats.
Umuna’s Cave!
Don climbed down to check for the pool
(I’d foolishly (or not) only brought my sunglasses and
it was too dark for me to see) and sure enough it was
there, just studded with rocks and leaf debris.
Instead we wandered Umana’s beach to its northern end
where a fabulous spit of sand curled a couple hundred
feet out into the water.
Left: Umanu's Sand Spit |
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The guidebook
promised good snorkeling and even diving if you had
conditions that allowed you to get outside the reef
south of Kenutu. We had perfect conditions, but
being the only boat in sight made us reluctant to be
daring. We did snorkel through the wave break to
the outside one late afternoon, which was exciting.
And the next day we snuck up on the trough between
Kenutu and its little satellite Lolo where the swell
crashes in a torrent that nourishes a vibrant little
coral garden in its foam…replete with a population of
reef sharks swirling in the fizz!
Not until we were
joined by two other boats – Rise ‘n Shine and
Sandpiper, two other American boats committed to
staying through the season, did we take the dinghy out
around the reef though a shallow channel to the outside.
Here we found a tongue of deeper water thrusting into
the reef, framed by coral cliffs. On the top edge
of the northern cliff was one of the most memorable
mini-coral-scapes I have ever seen. In no more
than six feet of water, Mother Nature had arranged two
simple types of coral – small flat table corals and
upright staghorn-like corals – in what looked for all
the world like an intentional arrangement of lily pads
and candelabra! Hopefully it will survive the off
season and we can get back with a camera! Farther
out was a coral plateau probably forty feet deep.
Hopefully THAT will also be waiting for us when we get
back next year with scuba gear.
After four days we
left Kenutu to the other two boats, and checked out the
other eastern anchorages, leeward of the next string of
islands in – Ofu, Mafana, and ‘Olo’ua. Ofu and
‘Olo’ua both have small villages on them who access the
backside of Neiafu through a deep bay to the north known
as Old Harbor. We spent the day snorkeling around
Mafana. In a long swim that took us two-thirds the
way around the island, we never found any pretty corals,
but we saw a sequence of interesting things including
our first lionfish of the season, three large permit
fish (always a surprise to see big fish in shallow
water), a huge bubble ball maybe 18 inches in diameter
that I take to be some kind of algae or maybe some kind
of anemone. (Never seen the likes of it before. )
And, while floating on our backs speculating on whether
we could swim all the way around, a colony of flying
foxes (large fruit bats) hanging out (literally) and
chattering in the trees above us! We ended up the
day by anchoring in a tricky sort of spot between
‘Olo’ua and a peninsula of the main island where islets
around us literally came and went with the tides.
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Aerial view of our
‘Olo’ua anchorage
Tackless II on the
mooring at Tapana |
After three weeks of play, we again began
to feel the clock ticking down. We had just weeks
before our flight to Fiji, so there was no changing our
minds again. We were committed to leaving
the boat. And there was lots to do to get
her ready. So back we sailed to Tapana, taking the
Fanua tapu pass under sail, and picked up the mooring on
which Tackless would float for the next six months.
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