2C Update #138 - In Transit Home – Tongatapu (November
28-29, 2005)
Air travel in Tonga is fraught with
enough suspense that it is next to impossible to book a
connecting flight to anywhere outside the country with
less than a 24-hour layover on Tongatapu. The travel
agents just won’t do it! At least ours wouldn’t. As if
that weren’t bad enough, the connection we were waiting
for in Tongatapu was not a direct flight back to the US
but onward to Fiji. We found ourselves in this fix
because six months earlier we had booked our return
tickets to the US, based on our intention to stow the
boat at Fiji’s Vuda Point. To top this off, our Tongan
visas expired a week before our flight back, so we
either had to renew those visas for another month, or
leave a week before our flight out of Fiji, which is how
these two captains found ourselves with a day kill to in
Nuku’alofa and a week of same in Fiji. It is an
acknowledged curse in cruising to commit to any kind of
schedule, and it didn’t help our attitude that it was a
trap of our own making.
Why this should be so frustrating is a peculiar quirk of
ours. Notwithstanding some of our memorable planned land
excursions, the voyage itself is the “travel” for us, so
when we get off the boat, especially to fly back to the
US, everything in between seems like “transit”, even
though it might qualify as a whole vacation to other
people! Plus, we are quite simply not accustomed to
paying for a bed to sleep in. On the other hand, we had
no other plan for visiting Tongatapu, and we figured an
advance look at Fiji, in particular Vuda Point Marina
where we expected to stow the boat next year couldn’t
hurt.
Tongatapu is the southernmost (and largest) island of
the Tongan chain and the site of the Kingdom’s capital
city, Nuku’alofa. As we flew in, we saw a big flat
island with an extensive spread of cultivated fields. A
huge horseshoe-shaped lagoon takes a big bite out of the
island’s basic triangular shape, all of it apparently
too shallow to be navigable.
The airport, at the southern tip of Tongatapu is about
as far away as it could be from Nuku’alofa. We landed at
what surely must be one of the most Spartan air
terminals in the world, and were relieved to find our
hotel had sent a car for us. Our driver was not the
usual driver, but his recently-graduated daughter and
her younger sister who entertained us with observations
about the island and their future careers as we made the
trip into town. The chief landmark we passed on the way
was the Prince’s Residence, a modern mansion by any
country’s standards, perched behind gates at the crest
of a rise. The Prince is the one who owns and operates
the country’s somewhat unreliable airline among other
ventures.
Letting friends make reservations for you turns out to
be an interesting reflection of their perception of you.
Our friend Lisa back in Vava’u had recommended we stay
at the Villa, a rather upscale B&B right on the
waterfront. Down the street were a handful of places far
cheaper that we could handled easily for the single
night stay. However, in the end, staying at the Villa
made for one of the highlights of our visit, for some
interesting people that we met.
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The Villa and 'new'
proprietors Kim & Judy. The Villa's
Garden (below) |
Recently purchased by a Kiwi couple , Kim and Judy, the
Villa is a comfortable home away from home with four
guest rooms, a big living room, an eat-in kitchen for
breakfast and a pleasant garden patio in back with
tables and chairs and an outside bar. We were shown into
the front guest room with shuttered windows and a double
bed all done in airy white! If you ever think you don’t
have enough room to put in a bathroom, just write Kim
and Judy for details of the facilities in our room that
fit everything required into the space of a closet!
After dropping off our luggage, Don and I got a ride into
“downtown”, which was surprisingly developed. Our first
top was Immigration where we hoped to obtain a document
that would ensure our ability to fly back into the
country without an outbound ticket. After waiting with
the crowd, we found they just weren’t going to issue any
such paper six months in advance, but we got a fax
number for the future.
Having failed in our primary objective our next thought,
as usual for us, was to hunt up some food, having been
up since five with no breakfast. On Taufa’ahau Rd we
found a street full of the offices and eateries that
cater to travelers. The Escape Café, a new place
recommended to us from the folks at the Villa was just
down the block from the Lonely Planet’s favorite, The
Friends’ Café. We had a great meal (and enjoyed looking
at everybody else’s).
In the cafes and all along this street we bumped into
people who’d be on the flight from Vava’u. Even though
so much of our life is spent traveling, it is not so
often than we encounter other travelers who are not
cruisers. Often young, but not always, and rarely
American, these are people who take a big chunk of time
-- usually several months to a year – for unscheduled
exploration of a particular part of the world. They
usually travel on a tight budget, never on tours, often
on round-the-world air deals, with a tattered Lonely
Planet guide helping to map out their wandering. We saw
them in the Internet Cafés of Quito, met them on the
busses in Mexico, made room for their backpacks on the
“le trucks” of Papeete, and shared rustic fales with
them in Samoa. Every time Don and I merge with these
world wanderers, we both feel a regret that we grew up
not realizing that the world could be seen this way, up
close and personal and on a shoestring, and wish there
was some way to pass along this insight to all the kids
of our families.
Tonga’s Royal Palace
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The rest of the day we did the tourist thing. We drove
by the Royal Palace, a white Victorian building with red
trim, and then onward to the Tongan National Center, a
museum of artifacts right out of William Mariner’s saga
of battles between rival Tongan Kings (The Tonga Islands
– William Mariner’s Account, by Dr. John Martin). The
Tongan’s weapon of choice was the club, and given their
tradition of carving, quite a variety of unfriendly
shapes were invented. Should your timing be right (ours
wasn’t) the Centre puts on a once-a-week feast with
traditional dance, and they also have various classes
they offer, good for folks spending some time here.
Model of traditional boat at Museum
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Hard to believe but those activities pretty well
exhausted our day. If they hadn’t been clear across the
island we might have gone to see some “langi”, stone
tombs and other archaeological remnants of ancient Tonga
or Mapu’a ‘a Vaca Blowholes. Instead we returned to the
Villa where the owners’ son John and his mate, on
vacation from school, were cheerily working their way
alphabetically through a sequence of exotic cocktails as
per the Red Bar Book, constrained only by the outdoor
bar’s liquor options! Sitting around we met and chatted
with a Belgian couple, Jean and Francoise. A retired
nuclear physicist, Jean travels as much as he can,
pressed by failing kidneys to get as much in as
possible. Another guest was Robyn, a young Aussie gal in
Tonga to teach about HIV prevention. And finally, after
dinner at a nearby Chinese Restaurant, (where as the
only customers we watched a Chinese historical drama on
TV with the staff!), we spent a most edifying evening in
the lounge in conversation with the villa’s fourth
guest, Don, from Perth, Australia, who as a consultant
from the World Bank was in the capital advising Tonga’s
wobbly government on their economic crisis. These two
bumpkin sailors learned a lot about Tonga and the world
that night.
Ceremonial Quilts
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After a great nights sleep in our puffy white room, we
woke early and went for a walk along the waterfront.,
killing time before breakfast. In the port facilities we
could see a couple of boats we knew on the sea wall, but
couldn’t figure out to reach them. Probably too early
anyway. We did have chance to get some good photographs
of traditional Tongan cemeteries, with the
characteristic quilts displayed to honor the deceased,
and we were most amused by a little boy, walking in
front of us down the sidewalk who, seemingly oblivious
to us behind him, worked very hard to stomp on our long
shadows!
We had a nice breakfast with all the other guests (minus
the young mixologists!), and on the way to the airport
realized our irritating layover add turned into a most
pleasant experience.
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